A few more entries have appeared on the AB blog covering a few more days in Turkey. The first three entries, covering 7th, 8th and 9th April, don’t add much to what we already know [not a lot, I know, as placenames and distances are missed]; the one phrase that catches my eye is at the end of the entry for 7th, ‘Ya Li Xiaolong with Kanjia is so, must travel home’- but I haven’t a clue what it means. Suffice to say that they were very impressed by the beauty of Esme. If these entries were brief then the one following, covering 10th to the 23rd April, is very thin indeed, however we are then treated to two items by Li Xiaoya [or Marissa as she now calls herself], one for the 12th and one for the 23rd.
The following translations are the combined efforts of Google-analytics, a native Chinese speaker and a native English speaker. There is no written guarantee regarding accuracy -
“12th April - 23 kilometers to the east of Erzincan city, sunny, a rainbow appeared on the snow-capped mountain
In order to arrive earlier,we were separated into two groups with 4 people in each, a few days ago. Our team rode for a while and then went by bus so as to catch up with the other. Yesterday, after meeting at Erzincan we decided to camp once we rode out of Erzincan to get a rest. Erzincan is a city surrounded by many snow-capped mountains. Even when you are in a street in the city centre you can see the mountain rise above your head.
Due to the light reflections from the snow I felt that the sunshine here was too dazzling. It was much more like the sunshine in summer than in spring. I daren’t remove my scarf because I was afraid even my mother wouldn’t recognise me after staying here for a couple of days, he-he.
Along the way from Erzincan the landscape was very beautiful. The rolling snow-capped mountains, the azure blue sky, green grass, and the shimmering water. Everything was quiet and peaceful and seemed isolated from the noise. A thing most wonderful was that there was a littlt rain on our way suddenly and then we saw a rainbow on the snowcapped mountain in front of us. After a while, the rainbow disappeared quietly. However, I still captured the moment of its disappearance because I was staring all the time and any of its little tricks could not escape from my eyes.
In the evening,when we finished camp, all the others were busy lighting a fire for cooking. I was writing my diary while watching at the sunset from the tent.
In the evening, the sun became a light yellow colour. Because of the thick clouds we were not be able to see the face of the sun for a lot of the time. Sometimes the sun ran away from the clouds and we could see the light very clearly. I thought there were fantastic colours in the angle formed by the horizon and the line of sight. I felt that I was at the end of the sea and sky. I seemed to be a vagrant.
The dinner was wonderful. Coprinus, noodles, eggs, and added some seasonings. With Chinese style music, it was so cool. Liu jia couldn’t help himself singing loudly.
What a day! After 3000 kilometres, finally we had the feeling that we were on the journey.
with regards
Marissa (this is my new English name)”
“23rd April - 70km away from Erzurum,weather is sunny. Experienced robbery.
This is the second bad experience which has happened on our way. Every time Liu Jia, Yang Jianying and I have been involved. We have had bad luck.
The first time happened in Greece, near the border. That day we rode until it got dark and we hadn’t found any water along the way so we decided to fetch some water from the gas station by the roadeside. Liu Jia and Yang Jianying went together, but the guys in the station ran out with a gun and shouted at them viciously, “No camping! No water!”. Those two were calm at that moment as maybe they thought they would not be hurt because they were not malicious, but when Liu Jia told me about it I was almost scared to death.
Today was more depressing, since the two groups before us were ok. Only when we three passed, the robbery happened. At that moment, we were just on an uphill and were moving slowly. Liu Jia walked in front, followed by Yang Jianying and I was the last one. I saw there were two people on the roadside in the front and Liujia stopped when he passed them. At the begining, I thought that must have met some local people who were curious about us but after a while I felt there was something wrong. One of the locals stood in the way in front of Liu Jia. As a result I rode quickly in order to arrive there to see what was happening. When I rushed to the front and looked back,I saw that Liu Jia was still stopped there. If Yang Jianying and I went away then Liu Jia would be left there alone, so we decided to stop and sit on the saddle ready to leave at any time. At that moment we discovered that the man beside Liu held a stick and the other man held a dagger. I finally realised why Liu Jia hadn’t moved. Originally I thought that we three were enough to deal with the two teenage children and we did not need to take notice of their threats, but I didn’t know what to do once I saw the dagger. So I just stayed there quietly and thought if they came close to me, I would just ride away. I was really not afraid then,I just didn’t know what was the best way to solve the problem. They kept shouting ‘Money’ to us and Liu Jia. Yang Jianying just said ‘We are students. No money’. I was so stupid at that moment that I forgot to seek help from any passing trucks, or maybe there were no trucks passing, I can’t remember clearly. After a stalemate, Liu gave them some coins and they turned to Yang Jianying. Yang said nothing but gave them some coins also. When it was my turn at last, I just said ‘No money’, they didn’t say much and let us go.
After the incident we understood the situation more clearly. They were only some teenage children and they wouldn’t dare to do anything if we had ignored them, but we didn’t know that at the time. If that had been adult robbers and we had been hurt the journey couldn’t have been continued and the money [10,000 - 20,000 yuan] we had already spent would go to the wind. Just as Liu said, the worst situaition would have been like a TV film and we could have been robbed and hurt. Someone may say that what we did was weak, that we lost face and we condoned crime, but in our situation safety is the most important thing.
In addition I think the Turkish government should give more consideration to the education issue. We saw many places along the way which were just the same. A number of school-age children became gang members or would clean shoes for others. Along the way from Kasan, near Greece, to Erzurum, near Iran, every place was the same. Not only in the town but also the large city. Children are the future of a country. There is indeed no reason to not to provide the children opportunities to go to school. Especially when Turkey is unlike China to face a serious population problem. I just want to say that a child without entering the school really can’t do anything substantive but I also want to say the facts which I saw with my eyes. I know there are many such children in China also and there are many people who are doing something for them and I am sure there are much more people that are able to do something for them. Whatever the Chinese, the Turkish, the American, please help these children! Whether it is the individual, the country or the world, ignorance is really the biggest sorrow.”
These two entries give some insight into what is happening, a flavour of how things are progressing and throw some light on the possible meaning of other more terse entries. For example there have been several instances of bus and car rides mentioned but never any details about how far, or where from or to, or who has been hitching lifts, often there is no explanation at all. It would appear that some of the riders are faring better than others and the group now regularly divides into two, the stronger ones and those who are not so strong. I’m not sure how this benefits the tour as a whole, possibly allowing the stronger riders to detour and do some sight seeing while the slower group takes the shortest route, but this is just speculation. Inevitably they are still seeing the world and interpreting it with Chinese eyes and minds and are constantly at risk of being overwhelmed by sights and occurrences which would normally be outside their sphere of experience [much the same as anyone in a strange world would].
In addition to the blog entries there are a few more one-line entries on the Express Bank. The distances mentioned are not very long, 46 km. on 2008.5.8 and 35 km. on 2008.5.9 [they are now in Iran] which is a little worrying as they need to be clearing 100 kms per day to be in Beijing for 08.08.08. The most important messages are on the 10th and 11th when we learn that Mo Hanyi returns to Tehran by car/taxi[?] and brings back the Pakistan visas and Yang Jianying and Li Xiaoya will fly to Delhi - and rejoin the others for Nepal and beyond?